Newfoundland and Labrador still rock

ST. JOHN’S, N.L.—Any Newfoundlander or Labradorian will tell you “May month” is not the best time to come for a visit. Especially this year: accounts from friends were pretty dismal: drizzle, rain, and fog for the last few weeks. In spite of all this, my family went to St. John’s for three days last weekend. The trip was planned for a number of reasons, but mainly because my globetrotting children had never been to what once was my home. Clearly this had to be rectified, so my wife, daughter, son, and his partner took a chance on the weather. Astonishingly, instead of freezing rain and blustery cold, there was sunshine. We five did almost everything one can do here in three days, including spotting moose and icebergs, and eating delicious seafood. On arrival, we set up on Gower Street in a beautiful Victorian home. From there, we walked Water Street, Signal Hill, and the Cabot Tower. That evening we met up with friends at the Crowsnest Club, one of Canada’s most unusual and spectacular bars. Then to lovely Mallard Cottage in historic Quidi Vidi village, an award-winning restaurant featuring local game, vegetables, and seafood in brilliant combinations by chef Todd Perrin. We shared dishes, and every one, from cod cheeks to oysters to lamb shank and lobster thermidor, was excellent. On Saturday, we followed up on reports of icebergs in Ferryland, south of St. John’s, stopping first in Petty Harbour, home of musician Alan Doyle. While Petty Harbour has lost none of its charm, the port was quiet, as crab fishermen are refusing to go to sea due to a $2-per-pound cut in the price of crab. The absence of this lucrative fishery will be tough for all concerned, if not resolved soon. Icebergs at Ferryland. Photograph courtesy of Andrew Caddell When we approached Ferryland, a small white cap could be seen above the hills by the town. As we drew closer, we spied two icebergs, grounded in the harbour, indescribably beautiful. We returned via Tors Cove for tea with an old friend and then to Cape Spear, the most eastern location in North America. That night it was beers and fish and chips at The Duke of Duckworth, featured in Allan Hawco’s Republic of Doyle. Then to George Street for the kids to be “screeched-in,” something I have always refused to do, but is fun for the tourists. After that, it was live music with a folk band I swear I saw in the 1980s. To wind up the weekend, we went to the historic 18th century town of Brigus. On the way, we stopped when we saw two moose just off the road. After lunch it was back to St. John’s to check out The Rooms museum, Bannerman Park, the Colonial Building, and Government House. The last time I was in St. John’s was 2019, when I cycled across the island. Since that time, a struggling economy has rebounded from the cost of the disastrous Muskrat Falls hydro project and poor offshore oil revenues. This is thanks to federal government support for Premier Andrew Furey’s Liberals, and a rise in demand for petroleum. The next big offshore oil project, the $16-billion Bay du Nord, will generate more revenues, and its low-carbon content is projected to align with Canada’s net-zero objectives. It's about time a consistent level of prosperity came to Newfoundland and Labrador. There has been so much hard living over its history. The Rooms exhibit of the First World War brings into focus how many young lives were lost from this tiny island. At the Colonial Building, one is reminded of how riots in April 1932 destroyed the legislature and led to the creation of a seven-man autocracy to run Newfoundland until 1949. Ever since, there have been a couple of booms, but many busts. And massive out-migration. Yet despite all that hardship, the people on The Rock continue to be friendly, cheery, generous, and creative. They produce some of the most talented entertainers in the world: Mark Critch’s Son of a Critch TV show is being syndicated abroad, and Come From Away continues to delight theatre audiences everywhere. Every time I visit, I am reminded how very lucky Canada was when Newfoundland and Labrador chose to join it in 1949. Andrew Caddell is retired from Global Affairs Canada, where he was a senior policy adviser. He previously worked as an adviser to Liberal governments. He is a town councillor in Kamouraska, Que. He can be reached at pipson52@hotmail.com. The Hill Times

Newfoundland and Labrador still rock

Every time I visit, I am reminded how very lucky Canada was when Newfoundland and Labrador chose to join it in 1949.

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Newfoundland and Labrador still rock

Every time I visit, I am reminded how very lucky Canada was when Newfoundland and Labrador chose to join it in 1949.

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